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Shutterstock Photographer Forum Forum Index : Critique / Tips / Tricks :
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imagesetc


Joined: 15 Sep 2011
Posts: 297
Location: South Europe

Post Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 9:23 pm     Reply with quote

Until you have them all in your bag,...stay around 30mm (middle) on your kit lens. They are really soft when shooting on ends of zoom (eg. 18mm or 55mm)55mm is totally useless focal length. Shoot in A mode F8. You could place a camera on some solid surface like tray when shooting from furniture, because cushions are moving (camera slowly sinks),...until you buy a tripod. And when buying one,...head is VERY important (beside tripod sturdiness)
Beware of shallow depth of field! Common focusing problem.
1. Step back
2. Zoom out
3. Close aperture (raise f number(f 8 is sharpest))

Even tack sharp, this shot would be rejected for lighting and low commercial value.

I think you can make it

Tom
rinder99


Joined: 12 Jul 2005
Posts: 39124
Location: Contact www.rinderart.com/Books and Workshops www.rindersmithphotography.com Youtube/rinder

Post Posted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 12:08 am     Reply with quote

Also... you said your lens is 3.5. It is at 18mm the more you zoom in the slower it gets. It says 3.5/5.6. That means 3.5 at 18mm and 5.6 at 55mm thats really slow.

my 24-70 and 70-200 is 2.8 throughout the range. HUGE difference, like 4 stops of light.
semmickphoto


Joined: 12 Feb 2012
Posts: 6465
Location: Stuck between a shutter and a hard place

Post Posted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 12:29 am     Reply with quote

The difference is also 2000 dollars
jeffbanke


Joined: 18 Dec 2005
Posts: 17461
Location: www.xlr8photo.com, The real California

Post Posted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 12:52 am     Reply with quote

semmickphoto wrote:
The difference is also 2000 dollars


Actually since Laurin and I have the same leses, I can speak to that comment :-)
Both lenses were approximately $2000 each so the difference is greater LOL!
Add to that the primes I have 24, 35, 50, etc., the dollar investment in glass way exceeds the camera bodies.


Last edited by jeffbanke on Sat Jun 23, 2012 10:23 am; edited 1 time in total
Mike Hammond


Joined: 05 Jun 2012
Posts: 35

Post Posted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 9:02 am     Reply with quote

imagesetc wrote:


Even tack sharp, this shot would be rejected for lighting and low commercial value.

I think you can make it

Tom


Thanks for the encouragement! I'll keep hacking at it.

I didn't really expect to submit this to ShutterStock unless everybody raved about it (which I doubted). It was really just more of a proof of concept - could I create a professionally sharp image of something - anything.

If I can't do that, it doesn't matter whether I shoot could have been commercially valuable.

Thanks for all the input. I'll recalibrate my process, and post another (hopefully sharper) shot again soon.
luizeduardo


Joined: 12 Sep 2010
Posts: 72

Post Posted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 9:54 am     Reply with quote

rinder99 wrote:
luizeduardo wrote:
semmickphoto wrote:
I shoot at f/8 with my kit lens 18-55 with the same conditions you have and my photos are sharp.


Also, if a camera is on a piece of furniture, it wont move either, why need a tripod that does the same? Its not like the furniture is moving on its own.

And I am not saying fast glass and a tripod are not better, just saying there is no reason why this shot cant be sharp with equipement used.


I agree. It's possible to get great shots with canon 18-55 kit lens. I got many good ones. Its inaccuracy is related more with lack of proper ligth than to other factors. If you shoot f8 50 mm using a good source of ligth, you are going to get good pictures in a constant rate.

In good light conditions I think the most of the cheap lenses work pretty well for still objects.


Obviously. But this shot wasn't. you guys will never know the difference fast Glass makes until you use it.I can use a kit lenses because of technique. Most can't and sorry, There is absolutely No substitute for a sturdy tripod. I said to take 10 because your dealing with Luck here.I've done landscapes lit by the moon at 2/3 minutes that are tack sharp freezing in the middle of a road.Giving bad advice because of inexperience is not a good thing Guys. Learn the right way and then you only need to learn it once and shoot it once, That means a true understanding Of light, DOF,How your camera works and the best Optics you can Get.

I get crazy when I read "My kit lens is great" It's not, You just don't know or can see the difference.

When you have a ton of light and are outside Just about any lens can and will work But, If your in Dim Low Light situations Bad Optics are gonna rear up and Bite ya especially using Auto Focus. Everytime. Add in having your camera on a chair? C-Mon.Lets get real.

If ya can't afford the best optics or a big ass tripod with a solid head on it thats fine and I understand, But please don't advise others that it's ok.Your keeper rate will go down and thats not a good thing just getting Lucky.

i've always stressed that If you want this and not just stock you must Invest in your craft.Kit lenses are for consumers and are a very bad investment for resell Value.Cameras are disposable. Glass is not, And it's senseless to even debate it. You want Barrel Distortion,Pin cushion effects,Chromatic abberations,Low contrast and color fidelity, Low AF speed, Narrow choices for Fstop sharpness and zero resell value. Thats what you get.But most don't even know what these issues are anyway. I really Hate when Folks throw away money and then once they learn, They have to buy again. That just makes no sense at all.


Just to clarify, I shoot with canon L series nowadays, but I know how expensive they are. There are many people that have no money and I think it is better to try using what you have and keep shooting than wait till conditions ($$) get better. Depending on the country you live, a high quality lens costs what you earn in many months of work as a photographer. Lots of professional I observe have to make inferior gear do.

Some people are fortunate to learn in the best conditions, some don't. I think we could show alternatives, that is my point.
jeffbanke


Joined: 18 Dec 2005
Posts: 17461
Location: www.xlr8photo.com, The real California

Post Posted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 10:37 am     Reply with quote

I know that some of us in the fast glass grouping sound like we are preaching sometimes, what the rest of you need to understand is that we have been shooting with SLR's and medium format cameras since the 1960's. We have made every mistake there is in the book during that time. We have bought cheap lenses and suffered the consequences for it.
Our only motivation in telling you all to get the best glass (note I did not say that you can afford), is that you will save money in the long run, you will be able to get images that others cannot, and therefor get more work, and you will look more profesional in the process.

Now lets address the financial side of things, you have options.
Pay for it outright (seems most are reluctant to spend money on expensive gear, but are willing to purchase cars to go to work when a bicycle, motorcycle, scooter or bus would do).

Alternatively you can but gear on the never-never (over time)

Another alternative is to rent the better glass (which is something I recommend to everyone to try the lenses out anyway)
libyphoto


Joined: 08 Jun 2009
Posts: 796
Location: Oz

Post Posted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 10:56 am     Reply with quote

Good glass is not a gamble. I bought the Canon 50mm 1.4 over the 1.8 and was not impressed with it for the extra money spent. Sold it for $50 more than I payed for it. The point is, you can always get most, if not all, of your money back out of it.

Start with the 50mm 1.8 as suggested earlier. It what, 99 bucks?
semmickphoto


Joined: 12 Feb 2012
Posts: 6465
Location: Stuck between a shutter and a hard place

Post Posted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 11:49 am     Reply with quote

libyphoto wrote:
Good glass is not a gamble. I bought the Canon 50mm 1.4 over the 1.8 and was not impressed with it for the extra money spent. Sold it for $50 more than I payed for it. The point is, you can always get most, if not all, of your money back out of it.

Start with the 50mm 1.8 as suggested earlier. It what, 99 bucks?
129
imagesetc


Joined: 15 Sep 2011
Posts: 297
Location: South Europe

Post Posted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 5:39 am     Reply with quote

Hi,
Every piece of equipment (vehicle, on-set items, post-production equipment,...) has its "working price". It should be calculated taking these inputs:
1. Purchase price
2. Service price
3. and usage wearing (retail price later)

Working price is presented in hours. In TV station calculations, we must calculate price per second (both for production and emission(premiere and repetition))

RULE: Shoot more - cost you less

FINAL THOUGHT: Most expensive piece of your equipment is the one which sits on a shelf.

Calculate for 20 years period. Understand importance of warranty period.
You need to be very well informed and educated about photography and equipment as well, before buying anything. Check for local service shops and shipping of spare parts.
Maintain your equipment and always follow given instructions and safety precautions by manufacturer. It`s the rule.
Some of us have a great opportunity to rent something if it is necessarily. Always write down scenario. If possible make a shot list with schedules and things needed, you will be surprised how much it helps on set. Expand your scenarios and you will be able to make monthly shot list. This simple techniques can drastically improve your results and help you understand price.

Good luck to all,

Tom
Mike Hammond


Joined: 05 Jun 2012
Posts: 35

Post Posted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 7:17 am     Reply with quote

Brought my tripod along on this week's business trip.

When I woke up this morning, the little guy was checking himself out in the mirror - flexing his muscles and stuff. I think he may be feeling a little inadequate.

What do you think? (Looking for critiques of the tripod - not of the photograph.)

For those who care - this was hand-held with my 50mm f/1.8 manual focused on the brand name on the leg. The exposure was 1/160th sec. at f/2.0 with ISO set at 1600. It's not the best photo ever taken.



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hhltdave5


Joined: 20 Jun 2006
Posts: 24052
Location: Our Stock, Food & Portrait photography books at www.rindersmithphotography.com

Post Posted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 8:25 am     Reply with quote

It looks like one of the basic tripods that you would get in a camera store with a pan head (meant for video cameras). From what I can tell it looks like it is made from aluminum and those generally are not very stable.

When getting a tripod you need to think of it as more than something to just hold the camera. It needs to be able to keep the camera steady in wind, vibrations, on unstable surfaces such as sand and so on.

The problem with the pan head that this looks like it has is that it does not give you good range of motion. It basically goes side to side or up and down. That is why most of us use what is called a ball head. These allow you to move the camera in all kinds of directions.

This is the ball head that I use:

http://www.adorama.com/BG498.html

This is the tripod I use

http://www.adorama.com/BG055XPROB.html
ruxpriencdiam


Joined: 07 May 2009
Posts: 26151
Location: Third Stone from the Sun

Post Posted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 8:50 am     Reply with quote

Looks like one of the cheaper ones from wall mart,it has a handle on it to carry it and the cheap plastic crank to tighten the center column.

Not the greatest.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EHW6PG/ref=asc_df_B000EHW6PG2068342?smid=A14HQ79M65J2WQ&tag=shopzilla_mp_1339-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395129&creativeASIN=B000EHW6PG

And when it breaks and it will you will see why you should have bought a better one.

Because now you have wasted $80 and will need another one preferably a better one that is going to run near $200.
Mike Hammond


Joined: 05 Jun 2012
Posts: 35

Post Posted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 9:22 am     Reply with quote

ruxpriencdiam wrote:
now you have wasted $80 and will need another one preferably a better one that is going to run near $200.


Fortunately, it wasn't my 80 bucks. This was a gift from when I first starting getting more serious about photography.

Okay - so it's a substandard tripod. I'm not terribly shocked.

Speaking practically, how helpful can I expect this tripod to be? What kinds of situations can I expect to use it in a way that improves the photographic situation?
semmickphoto


Joined: 12 Feb 2012
Posts: 6465
Location: Stuck between a shutter and a hard place

Post Posted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 9:30 am     Reply with quote

ruxpriencdiam wrote:

Because now you have wasted $80 and will need another one preferably a better one that is going to run near $200.


The gear Dave has linked to is the same I bought and costed me 400 dollars ex TAX.

My previous tripod costed me 9 euros and its now collecting dust.
 
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