Shutterstock Photographer Forum :: View topic - Most affordable way to blow out studio background?

cubrazol · Joined: 02 Apr 2009 Posts: 69

Hi

I have a d70s which I use to wirelessly control a sb600 via CLS (preflashes).

I want to use my sb600 as key light on my model but also blow out the background by using two additional flashes at max strength. The d70s can only control one group so I cant use CLS to set different strength for key and background light.

Setting the background lights to manual and triggering by optical slave will not work since the CLS preflash will trigger the background flashes.

Any ideas about the cheapest way to blow out the background and suggested equipment?

Thanks!

vclements · Posted: Sat Aug 29, 2009 8:44 am

The only thing I can think of is don't use CLS. Set the SB's to manual and use a flash meter to get the correct ratios.
You want the BG to be 1-2 stops over the main depending on the subject distance to the BG.

cubrazol · Joined: 02 Apr 2009 Posts: 69

I only have one sb600 which I need to trigger somehow. Preflash is the cheapest way since I already have that. I also need two cheap flashes and to trigger them somehow. The question is which background flashes to buy and how to trigger them.

massman · Joined: 04 Jul 2006 Posts: 453 Location: South Wales

You could do worse than some SB24s and cheap ebay radio triggers, works for me.

vclements · Posted: Sat Aug 29, 2009 3:33 pm

Your going to nickle and dime yourself to death trying to do stuff super cheap - it's gonna cost at least a few dollars.

If you need to remotely fire the SB, then you can either look at a wireless (the stuff on Ebay should last about a year before it dies). Alternately you can get the correct cord from Nikon (or look for it used) for less than $50. This will take care of firing the main.

Now you need a couple of flashes for the BG, a couple of used Vivitar 283's will give you decent power for cheap. You will need 2 optical slaves that will be triggered from the main (you could use 1 and wire between, but that can be a real PITA as you may need to crack open a 283 to accept external trigger).

I would invest $100 in a used flash meter that can also do ambient - it's well worth it. However, if that is not in the budget, then shoot/adjust/shoot/adjust/shoot/adjust...............

NOTE: DO NOT use the 283's directly on your DSLRs!!!
The 283's have a high sync voltage that will kill DSLRs. Use them wireless, or via an optical trigger or via a safe sync

rinder99 · Posted: Mon Aug 31, 2009 11:40 pm

If this is your Life or you want it to be. invest in it.Get real equipment. ya only have to buy it once. stop with the e-bay mentality.sorry......True.

Cheapest way?? get some 500watt Hot lights. 10 dollars. and watch your house catch fire.

kschulze · Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 6:43 am

zulufoto · Joined: 11 Dec 2008 Posts: 263 Location: www.zulufoto.com

It depends on what your background is made of. I use a muslin and I use two Alien Bee 800's and that barely seems enough on most shoots.

greenfield54 · Joined: 21 Jun 2009 Posts: 235 Location: Philippines

vclements · Posted: Mon Sep 21, 2009 8:51 am

greenfield54 · Joined: 21 Jun 2009 Posts: 235 Location: Philippines

davidcrehner · Joined: 20 Jul 2005 Posts: 4176

joeygil · Joined: 09 Aug 2005 Posts: 450

On Canon cameras you can hit the * button to pre-set flash exposure, recompose and shoot. If you can do the same with Nikon, you can pre-flash first, let the optical slaved flashguns regenerate, then take your shot.

Another think you can do is fix it in Photoshop. I make a copy of the original layer, make an opacity mask, past in another copy of that layer, adjust levels in the opacity mask for very high contrast, so the background turns white and your subject turns black. Fill in any spots with white or black, depending on what you need, fix the edges with your brush blending mode set to Overlay.

Once you've done that, you've essentially isolated your second layer. Go back to the layer view, and adjust levels until the background is white. The subject (which is masked) shouldn't be affected.

flashgun · Joined: 06 Jul 2009 Posts: 5

Stick of dynamite might do the trick

deryck · Joined: 30 Jul 2009 Posts: 1

If you put your light source to one side so that the light falls on the subject AND the background. Then put a defusser of some sort (tracing paper) to reduce the light falling on the subject BUT NOT INTERFERING with the light falling on the background. Now open your aperture until the exposure is correct on the subject. ( If shooting in full auto mode you might want to just use the over/under button and over expose until the subject is lit correctly) this will now have the bg over exposed. by how much it is over exposed is determined by the amount of difussion you have used.