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vclements
Joined: 20 Sep 2007
Posts: 2441
Location: http://www.vdavidclements.com
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Posted: Mon Sep 28, 2009 6:45 am
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| deryck wrote: | | If you put your light source to one side so that the light falls on the subject AND the background. Then put a defusser of some sort (tracing paper) to reduce the light falling on the subject BUT NOT INTERFERING with the light falling on the background. Now open your aperture until the exposure is correct on the subject. ( If shooting in full auto mode you might want to just use the over/under button and over expose until the subject is lit correctly) this will now have the bg over exposed. by how much it is over exposed is determined by the amount of difussion you have used. |
I can now say I have heard everything!
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rinder99
Joined: 12 Jul 2005
Posts: 32270
Location: Stock,food,portrait books www.rindersmithphotography.com
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Posted: Mon Sep 28, 2009 3:52 pm
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you and me both Vince.LOL
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fraiseap
Joined: 10 Oct 2008
Posts: 1494
Location: Birmingham UK and www.adamfraise.com
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Posted: Mon Sep 28, 2009 4:00 pm
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Laurin & Vince - c'mon, use your imagination. A massive softbox (about 8 feet wide) with a gobo cut out to be exactly the shape of the subject. Now adjust the softbox so the shadow of the gobo just covers the subject (no more, no less), add a fill light to light the subject 2 stops less than the background and - presto.
Hang on, Perry?, where are the meds?
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rinder99
Joined: 12 Jul 2005
Posts: 32270
Location: Stock,food,portrait books www.rindersmithphotography.com
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Posted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 1:36 pm
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| fraiseap wrote: | Laurin & Vince - c'mon, use your imagination. A massive softbox (about 8 feet wide) with a gobo cut out to be exactly the shape of the subject. Now adjust the softbox so the shadow of the gobo just covers the subject (no more, no less), add a fill light to light the subject 2 stops less than the background and - presto.
Hang on, Perry?, where are the meds? |
whatever works. LOL
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fraiseap
Joined: 10 Oct 2008
Posts: 1494
Location: Birmingham UK and www.adamfraise.com
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Posted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 1:51 am
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| rinder99 wrote: | | fraiseap wrote: | Laurin & Vince - c'mon, use your imagination. A massive softbox (about 8 feet wide) with a gobo cut out to be exactly the shape of the subject. Now adjust the softbox so the shadow of the gobo just covers the subject (no more, no less), add a fill light to light the subject 2 stops less than the background and - presto.
Hang on, Perry?, where are the meds? |
whatever works. LOL |
Yep, I figured "why make things easy when there is an unbelievably complex solution staring you in the face" LOL
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maxwellphoto
Joined: 31 Jul 2009
Posts: 78
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Posted: Thu Oct 08, 2009 9:52 pm
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| rinder99 wrote: | If this is your Life or you want it to be. invest in it.Get real equipment. ya only have to buy it once. stop with the e-bay mentality.sorry......True.
Cheapest way?? get some 500watt Hot lights. 10 dollars. and watch your house catch fire. |
This is no joke. I attempted to set up some studio lighting on the cheap. I figured some 12.94 shop/utility lights from the home improvement store would work fine, as long as I set white balance accordingly. Sorely mistaken. After several nasty burns, sheets upon sheets of melted vinyl (another cheap substitute: for a diffuser), and poorly lit images to boot, I have seen the light (no pun intended) and have decided to figure out how to do things right. Obviously, as a newbie, the techniques you are discussing here are way beyond my realm of expertise, but I thought I would add my own two cents and some comic relief at the same time. Good luck figuring it out. I am sure you can come up with something.
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bigrock
Joined: 15 Aug 2008
Posts: 332
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Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 4:57 pm
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I am a DIY fan and will cut corners where I can to spend less by making something instead of buying it, but spending 100-150 dollar (or euro for that matter) on a pair of small studio strobes will save you time and money.
I use all sorts of small strobes, when needed, home made softboxes with some older nikon sb80's and reflectors, but nothing is more flexible and faster than studio strobes with stepless power output control. And a flashmeter . . .
Dennis
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jeffbanke
Joined: 18 Dec 2005
Posts: 13738
Location: www.xlr8photo.com, slipping into darkness
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Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 7:58 pm
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OK, you don't have to go to the 4000w/s, 2000w/s, 1250w/s powerpacks and 8x 2000w/s heads with Pocket Wizards, that I have, nor do you have to go to the other extreme and use candles!
It is all about candle power though! Translate that into at least 3 good strobes in the 300w/s class or better! You can get these for about $150 each, anything less and you will find it limiting and eventually you will get the studio strobes.
If you really, really are stuck on the going cheap route and want to spend more in the long run, then buy some used Metz 45's add some RC batteries, so that they shoot for a long time, and couple them to some optical couplers or radio triggers and you have a mini studio, everything is manual, you will have to learn how to deal with that, but I gaurantee that you will learn more about lighting this way. BTW I have about 6 of these, I use to add shafts of light to a room or church, etc. Place them inside light fixtures to illuminate interiors so they look like the lighting was on, and you are not having to mess with mixed light sources as they are daylight 5600K.
3 of them will just fit a small studio situation, as long as you are not doing full body shots, and this is when you need to strp up to the strobes.
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