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allsop
Joined: 30 Oct 2007
Posts: 27
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kosmik
Joined: 13 Jun 2005
Posts: 34
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Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 6:58 am
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Hello everyone!
I've been a contributor here for a long while but I've never posted on the forums. But now is different. I decided to start a blog last month focused on helping fellow photographers. And I thought that it would be nice to share my knowledge with my fellow SStockers!
I just posted a video tutorial on non destructive dodging and burning. I hope you enjoy it!
Yanik
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rinder99
Joined: 12 Jul 2005
Posts: 12911
Location: THE MICROSTOCK BOOK, www.rindersmithphotography.com
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Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 12:28 pm
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"The beginners Guide to Microstock Photography"
Everything you need to know in one Place.By laurin Rinder and David smith.
www.rindersmithphotography.com
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kenny123
Joined: 13 Aug 2005
Posts: 2603
Location: Masterton, New Zealand
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Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 6:23 pm
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“Trap” focusing: (Developed by Yashica some years back) Never again miss the "Decisive Moment"
This is a neat way to use auto focus especially for fast sports action, I don’t know other maker’s settings but these are the settings for Nikon users:
Custom (pencil) menu:
Autofocus set to AF-S
AF area mode set to single
AE-L/AF-L set to AF ON
Compose your shot and set the focus by aiming the centre focus icon at a definite area at the precise distance you want, and pressing the "AE-L/AF-L" button near the viewfinder. This will focus the lens
Now press and hold the shutter button. As soon as something comes into focus the shutter will fire. Much faster than Human reflexes. You could use it to capture birds landing on perches, lightbulbs breaking,etc.,
Regards, Ken
Last edited by kenny123 on Wed Jun 04, 2008 12:50 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Forgiss
Joined: 16 Mar 2005
Posts: 4667
Location: For videos of our shoots: http://forgiss.libsyn.com
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Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2008 12:09 am
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| kenny123 wrote: | | “Trap” focusing: (Developed by Yashica some years back) Never again miss the "Decisive Moment".... |
now that is a good tip... wonder if there is something like that for Canon...
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kenny123
Joined: 13 Aug 2005
Posts: 2603
Location: Masterton, New Zealand
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Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2008 12:49 am
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| Forgiss wrote: | | kenny123 wrote: | | “Trap” focusing: (Developed by Yashica some years back) Never again miss the "Decisive Moment".... |
now that is a good tip... wonder if there is something like that for Canon... |
Sean, here's the original Yashica method-you may be able to work out from this how to use with Canon
Regards, Ken
Trap Focus Shooting
The Yashica 230-AF features a trap focus system which allows the shutter to trip as soon as the subject comes to the distance at which the lens has been focused beforehand. If you use this technique, you can take photographs of nervous animals that are usually difficult to shoot. You need only wait for the subject to arrive in the scene with the fixed focus. Moving objects can also be shot at your desired distance and in the composition you like even in your absence.
1 After setting the Selector Lever to "MF", set the Focus Mode to "continuous". While pressing the Focus Mode Button, move the Operating Lever to show the mark in the display panel.
2 Set the Exposure Mode and Drive Mode and focus the lens. Set the desired exposure mode and drive mode depending on the subject and situations. Then turn and set the Focusing Ring to your desired distance or a distance at which your intended subject is expected to come.
* You cannot use the self-timer and bulb exposure in the trap focus mode. 3 Place the camera, compose your picture and keep the Shutter Release in depressed position Face the camera toward the subject, choose your desired framing and keep the Shutter Release in depressed position with the Cable Switch. As soon as the subject arrives and it is caught in the Focusing Frame, the lens will focus on it and the shutter will trip to expose one frame if the Drive Mode is set to "S". If the camera is operating in the Drive Mode "C", it will take pictures one after another continuously while the lens is focused on the subject.
* While the camera is operating in the trap focus mode, its power switch remains on until the shutter trips.
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rinder99
Joined: 12 Jul 2005
Posts: 12911
Location: THE MICROSTOCK BOOK, www.rindersmithphotography.com
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Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2008 10:17 am
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Great post Ken. Dave Black Used to talk a bit about this awhile ago. Thanks for the reminder.
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kenny123
Joined: 13 Aug 2005
Posts: 2603
Location: Masterton, New Zealand
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Posted: Sun Jun 08, 2008 2:46 am
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| rinder99 wrote: | | Great post Ken. Dave Black Used to talk a bit about this awhile ago. Thanks for the reminder. |
You can also get it done with a manual focusing lens: when using a manual focus lens, you set the camera to auto focus, hold the shutter button down, then adjust the focus. Once the camera sees focus it will automatically snap a shot. regards, Ken
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traveler1116
Joined: 19 Feb 2007
Posts: 458
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jerryj2
Joined: 26 Nov 2005
Posts: 591
Location: Deleon FL
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jerryj2
Joined: 26 Nov 2005
Posts: 591
Location: Deleon FL
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rinder99
Joined: 12 Jul 2005
Posts: 12911
Location: THE MICROSTOCK BOOK, www.rindersmithphotography.com
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Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 11:05 am
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brilliant.Thats gonna help a lot of folks.
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davidcrehner
Joined: 20 Jul 2005
Posts: 3025
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Posted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 6:59 pm
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| rinder99 wrote: |
brilliant.Thats gonna help a lot of folks. |
...yeah, but that clips the light greys in the subject, too.
???
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kenny123
Joined: 13 Aug 2005
Posts: 2603
Location: Masterton, New Zealand
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Posted: Tue Jul 22, 2008 2:17 pm
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Here's My explanation of using Exposure compensation from my Point & Shoot Masterclass Guide:
While we are in the realms of exposure, here’s an experiment:
Get a piece of white paper and a piece of black paper ( A4 sheets) take separate photo of each sheet, in the same lighting conditions, using the camera’s meter on auto (Programme) setting - Surprise, Surprise! They both came out mid-grey. This is because the camera’s meter averages out the scene, giving an average exposure for the scene at 18%grey. This is okay for the average scene, but if you are viewing a high contrast scene, you will lose detail in both the highlights and the shadows. If you use the spot meter on your subject, your subject will come out fine. Your camera will have a 5 stop exposure compensation facility in 0.5 (some cameras give 0.3) increments:
( -2.0;-1.5; -1.0; -0.5; -0- + 0.5; +1.0; +1.5; +2.0) where zero is average 18% grey and -2 will give detail on black, and +2 will give detail on white - on a grey scale.
How much light is needed to make a photograph? That will be determined by the camera's built-in metering systems or by using a hand-held incident light meter which is used to measure the amount of light that is falling on the subject.
To aid in pre-visualising your finished photographic images I include a simplified “zone system” which you may find useful.
Tone Values
Meter Reading Appearance
1 +2 White with minimal detail
2 +1 Dried grass, bright-coloured flowers
3 0= Meter as read 18% grey - Green grass/Dry tarmac
4 - 1 Dark foliage
5 - 2 Black with some detail
By assigning a tone to parts of a scene that are not of tone value 3, is the key to controlling how dark or light things are to appear in the photograph. If you take a meter reading from the darkest and lightest parts of a scene, and find a difference of 5 stops, you should be able to capture minimal detail in all parts of your frame. if your scene goes beyond 5 stops difference, then you must decide where detail is to be lost - is shadow detail more important?, or highlights? As you can see. tone valuation takes guesswork out of the picture, and you should easily be able to determine which parts of an image will possess some detail, checking that they show at least +2 for white and -2 for black.
The Process
a) Give a tone value to some object in your frame-probably the cental subject-based on how you will want the finished photograph to look.
b) Set exposure according to the list above
c) Check other parts of the scene to determine their tone values, adjusting exposure as necessary.
Regards, Ken
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