Shutterstock Photographer Forum :: View topic

kmiragaya · Joined: 24 Dec 2007 Posts: 62 Location: London

Hello

I've been trying to shoot objects in a white background . I'm using a light tent and a couple of flashguns, one in each side of the light tent.Inside of the tent is a white paper I use as the background

The problem is I can't get my background to be pure white or as white as possible without blowing the objects I'm trying to shoot. I tried using pieces of black cardboard near the objects (but out of the frame) with the hope that they could absorb some of the light that was overexposing the objects but so far that approach han't given any results.If my subjects are properly exposed the background is not white and when the background is white the subjects are overexposed.

The idea of exposing the background one stop higher than the subjects to make it white is not applicable here in my opinion since the distance between subject and background is zero.

The other problem I have is that the texture of the paper (background) is visible in my pictures in the area where the objects I want to shoot are projecting shadows.

I tried to use dodge and burning and to blur the shadows to make the texture disappear but the results are not natural.

Can you tell me what am I doing wrong or a better way to do it?

Regards

rinder99 · Posted: Sun Dec 06, 2009 5:30 pm

"The idea of exposing the background one stop higher than the subjects to make it white is not applicable here in my opinion since the distance between subject and background is zero."

One of the many reasons Light tents are useless.they were designed for e-bay stuff. Not what we do. Just a roll of white seemless is the way to go. or a HUGE light tent.you could also use Mini Flags. you just dont have many options with those things and 2 small Speedlights is not enough power.Isolations are extremly easy to do but im afraid your gonna have to invest a bit to do it perfectly in camera without fixing it later. Some can do it but, it can be done so much better and easier and correctly with a roll of seemless and more light.also ..Custom WB is the way to go.

kmiragaya · Joined: 24 Dec 2007 Posts: 62 Location: London

Thanks for your very fast answer.You are always ready to help.

What I fail to understand is why do I need more power?. I can easily blow the background with my speedlights. The problem is that if I give the flashguns enough power to make the background pure white I will seriously overexpose my subject.

jeffbanke · Posted: Sun Dec 06, 2009 6:06 pm

Here is a better way to go for isos

hhltdave5 · Posted: Sun Dec 06, 2009 8:06 pm

One other thing that I would suggest is to use a different material to place your objects on. Seamless paper can absorb light and that is why I shoot all my table top images in which I want a white background on a piece of white plexiglass. This is more reflective and shows up whiter than seamless does. If you look at my gallery you will see the results. If it has a white background and it is product work it was done on plexiglass.

You will still most likely have to clean up the background a bit but no where near what you would need to do with paper.

You can also consider lighting the table top from the bottom by shooting on a light table.

I would agree that the regular light cubes are pretty much worthless. It makes it difficult to control the light, it scatters the light and it reduces the angles in which you can photograph the items. You don't really need it at all.

I do agree that

navnit · Joined: 11 Oct 2009 Posts: 8

Good points have been made so far.

My two cents:

Do's and don'ts

Don't use tents. Your room is your tent!

Use remote speedlites or strobes (more than one, for some effects more than two), never use on-camera flash - it is harsh, its light doesn't travel very far and generally useless. You may need reflectors/ black panels for certain effects.

Go totally manual so you can tinker with light output to your liking.

First only expose background (vertical area, not horizontal) to pure white, (if your image uses vertical background)!

Now place objects on material of choice and expose correctly without getting too "hungup" about background.

Now if floor of object is not white (and I am sure it won't be, particularly if you are using paper) next step comes in.

Illuminate from below using modified (diffused) light to correctly expose the floor on which the object is resting. Be aware that if you illuminate from bottom there are two problems with that:

1) If your base is paper, fiber may show through and create uneven light.
2) If your material is more on the "transparent side" than "translucent side", CA will be an issue.

All light will need to be soft. Lighting ratios will be critical or else you will kill the soft shadows/ reflections. Any lighting from bottom has to be totally indirect at very low level.

Take the final image.

The mechanics of the process steps are easy, but you are probably not going to like the initial results since this is NOT easy. There are a lot variables in light placement and intensity, and its different for each image.

Only do this while it is fun, then take a break. This is not supposed to be a torture!

Here's a couple that I did few days ago:

http://www.shutterstock.com/results.mhtml#photo_id=42179155
http://www.shutterstock.com/results.mhtml#photo_id=42179158

eppicphotos · Posted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 8:42 pm

Materials:

-Cardboard box (13"x13"x17")
-white tissue paper
-1 13"x19" photo paper for the seamless bottom
-2 daylight 6500 kelvin energy efficient bulbs (13 watts power each with 60w output equivalent)

The result:

It is possible to do it on the cheap.

ruxpriencdiam · Posted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 9:09 pm

First thing let me say listen to Laurin/Jeff and Dave on this issue they will steer you right especially for "isolations"! I have done most of mine on White poster board one 2x3 on the table and one standing up for the back.

I have used the on camera flash since it is close shooting and set its exposure in camera to soften, and i cancel shadows with other lights i have availiable and use a black poster board to absorb any excess light since i dont have strobes yet.

The isolations so far are a little tedious in the clean up process since i havent yet got a piece of white plexiglass as Dave has said to use! But i have just found a quicker easier way to clean them up that i have yet to try that will save me mucho time!

So in closing i say whatever you do since you are looking for a true "isolation" IE no shadows or reflections listen to Laurin/Jeff and Dave!

Notice no shadows or reflections!

eppicphotos · Posted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 9:59 pm

ruxpriencdiam · Posted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 10:17 pm

soctober · Posted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 5:03 am

kmiragaya · Joined: 24 Dec 2007 Posts: 62 Location: London

Ok, thank you all for your answers

I'll try to get a piece of acrylic or something less opaque than the paper I have been using. That way I guess I can overexpose the background without overexposing the subject too much.

jeffbanke · Posted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 1:05 pm

rinder99 · Posted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 8:12 pm

OR>>>> Spend a few bucks and get this. perfect isolations every single time.

http://www.adorama.com/LSLT39.html?searchinfo=lastolite&item_no=131

tsmarkley · Joined: 19 Nov 2007 Posts: 1

Are you shooting raw or jpeg in the camera. With raw you can a lot more in post production to fix white balance issues.