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turbodls1ta
Joined: 17 Jun 2008
Posts: 440
Location: T'exas, y'all
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Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 11:18 pm
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Naturally, Im on my computer without the image in question, but it is a skyline of Austin at night, with the top of the Frost Tower being really blown out (due to it being a pyrimad of light). Its unrecoverable in LR, and looks like crap with an exposure filter on it. The only way I was able to get it in range was to super under expose the image, but some of the darker parts (like reflections in the water) were too dark to recover. My question is, in order to make this image work, am I going to merge some exposures into an HDR? Is there a way I can shoot without blowing out the bright lights? |
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jatrax

Joined: 07 May 2011
Posts: 242
Location: Pacific Northwest
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Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 11:53 pm
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In camera HDR is one way to go. Although I have never been able to get anything from it that I would submit here. Possibly a better method would be to take several shots at different exposures and blend them in Photoshop.
In order to maximize the dynamic range you expose so that the light is just not quite blown out. That is the best you can do and if something is too dark, then you need to shoot that at a different exposure and blend them.
Maybe somebody else has a better idea but those are the only ways I know. Of course the dynamic range of your camera is also a factor, some are better than others. |
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turbodls1ta
Joined: 17 Jun 2008
Posts: 440
Location: T'exas, y'all
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Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 11:01 am
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Here's the photo:
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mauijon

Joined: 02 Mar 2005
Posts: 4279
Location: Maui, Hawaii
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Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 5:49 pm
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I would take two shots, this one and another about two-three stops less (smaller aperture or less time). Then cut out the tower top from the darker image and paste it on the other image. |
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robhainer

Joined: 03 May 2010
Posts: 2743
Location: Dallas, GA, USA
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Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 8:46 am
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In lightroom, crop and expose the image to get your normal exposure. Right-click, create virtual copy, tone down the overall exposure on the whole image to bring in the roof. Export both images to photoshop. Stack the normal exposure on top of the underexposure and delete where that roof is to bring it in.
A lot of times, the details are there in a raw image, you just can bring it in naturally in lightroom in one image and that exposure brush leaves something to be desired. |
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rinder99

Joined: 12 Jul 2005
Posts: 39191
Location: Contact www.rinderart.com/Books and Workshops www.rindersmithphotography.com Youtube/rinder
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Posted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 2:44 pm
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| mauijon wrote: | | I would take two shots, this one and another about two-three stops less (smaller aperture or less time). Then cut out the tower top from the darker image and paste it on the other image. |
If it's a shot I absolutely needed. Agree. |
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jeffbanke

Joined: 18 Dec 2005
Posts: 17463
Location: www.xlr8photo.com, The real California
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Posted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 5:24 pm
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| mauijon wrote: | | I would take two shots, this one and another about two-three stops less (smaller aperture or less time). Then cut out the tower top from the darker image and paste it on the other image. |
Easiest way to do it mon ami! |
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dianal

Joined: 06 May 2011
Posts: 25
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Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 10:42 pm
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I heard about a Japanese photographer-he used a black card, instead of NDG to keep the sky from burning out on his landscapes. the technique is named after him I believe. Does anyone know his name? I would love to google him!
I was doing some evening city pano shots a few weeks ago and tried it on a particularly bright building that was burning out.
I made sure the building was in the far right third (I am right handed) of the frame and waved my lens cap over the building for part of the exposure. LOL silly I know but it as all I had that was black! The first results were...interesting, but I got the hang of it. Just a matter of keeping the lens cap moving and getting the timing right, so not very difficult.
Likely not the best way 'technically' speaking, but way more fun than sit in front of my computer. |
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jeffbanke

Joined: 18 Dec 2005
Posts: 17463
Location: www.xlr8photo.com, The real California
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Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 1:06 pm
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| dianal wrote: | I heard about a Japanese photographer-he used a black card, instead of NDG to keep the sky from burning out on his landscapes. the technique is named after him I believe. Does anyone know his name? I would love to google him!
I was doing some evening city pano shots a few weeks ago and tried it on a particularly bright building that was burning out.
I made sure the building was in the far right third (I am right handed) of the frame and waved my lens cap over the building for part of the exposure. LOL silly I know but it as all I had that was black! The first results were...interesting, but I got the hang of it. Just a matter of keeping the lens cap moving and getting the timing right, so not very difficult.
Likely not the best way 'technically' speaking, but way more fun than sit in front of my computer. |
Hey whatever works!
For your particular problem one could of course use a cokin type filter holder and partially insert an ND filter covering only the hot spot. |
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