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How to get a blown out light recovered on long exposure..

 
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turbodls1ta


Joined: 17 Jun 2008
Posts: 440
Location: T'exas, y'all

Post Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 11:18 pm     Reply with quote

Naturally, Im on my computer without the image in question, but it is a skyline of Austin at night, with the top of the Frost Tower being really blown out (due to it being a pyrimad of light). Its unrecoverable in LR, and looks like crap with an exposure filter on it. The only way I was able to get it in range was to super under expose the image, but some of the darker parts (like reflections in the water) were too dark to recover. My question is, in order to make this image work, am I going to merge some exposures into an HDR? Is there a way I can shoot without blowing out the bright lights?
jatrax


Joined: 07 May 2011
Posts: 242
Location: Pacific Northwest

Post Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 11:53 pm     Reply with quote

In camera HDR is one way to go. Although I have never been able to get anything from it that I would submit here. Possibly a better method would be to take several shots at different exposures and blend them in Photoshop.

In order to maximize the dynamic range you expose so that the light is just not quite blown out. That is the best you can do and if something is too dark, then you need to shoot that at a different exposure and blend them.

Maybe somebody else has a better idea but those are the only ways I know. Of course the dynamic range of your camera is also a factor, some are better than others.
turbodls1ta


Joined: 17 Jun 2008
Posts: 440
Location: T'exas, y'all

Post Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 11:01 am     Reply with quote

Here's the photo:
mauijon


Joined: 02 Mar 2005
Posts: 4279
Location: Maui, Hawaii

Post Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 5:49 pm     Reply with quote

I would take two shots, this one and another about two-three stops less (smaller aperture or less time). Then cut out the tower top from the darker image and paste it on the other image.
robhainer


Joined: 03 May 2010
Posts: 2743
Location: Dallas, GA, USA

Post Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 8:46 am     Reply with quote

In lightroom, crop and expose the image to get your normal exposure. Right-click, create virtual copy, tone down the overall exposure on the whole image to bring in the roof. Export both images to photoshop. Stack the normal exposure on top of the underexposure and delete where that roof is to bring it in.

A lot of times, the details are there in a raw image, you just can bring it in naturally in lightroom in one image and that exposure brush leaves something to be desired.
rinder99


Joined: 12 Jul 2005
Posts: 39191
Location: Contact www.rinderart.com/Books and Workshops www.rindersmithphotography.com Youtube/rinder

Post Posted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 2:44 pm     Reply with quote

mauijon wrote:
I would take two shots, this one and another about two-three stops less (smaller aperture or less time). Then cut out the tower top from the darker image and paste it on the other image.


If it's a shot I absolutely needed. Agree.
jeffbanke


Joined: 18 Dec 2005
Posts: 17463
Location: www.xlr8photo.com, The real California

Post Posted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 5:24 pm     Reply with quote

mauijon wrote:
I would take two shots, this one and another about two-three stops less (smaller aperture or less time). Then cut out the tower top from the darker image and paste it on the other image.


Easiest way to do it mon ami!
dianal


Joined: 06 May 2011
Posts: 25

Post Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 10:42 pm     Reply with quote

I heard about a Japanese photographer-he used a black card, instead of NDG to keep the sky from burning out on his landscapes. the technique is named after him I believe. Does anyone know his name? I would love to google him!

I was doing some evening city pano shots a few weeks ago and tried it on a particularly bright building that was burning out.
I made sure the building was in the far right third (I am right handed) of the frame and waved my lens cap over the building for part of the exposure. LOL silly I know but it as all I had that was black! The first results were...interesting, but I got the hang of it. Just a matter of keeping the lens cap moving and getting the timing right, so not very difficult.

Likely not the best way 'technically' speaking, but way more fun than sit in front of my computer.
jeffbanke


Joined: 18 Dec 2005
Posts: 17463
Location: www.xlr8photo.com, The real California

Post Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 1:06 pm     Reply with quote

dianal wrote:
I heard about a Japanese photographer-he used a black card, instead of NDG to keep the sky from burning out on his landscapes. the technique is named after him I believe. Does anyone know his name? I would love to google him!

I was doing some evening city pano shots a few weeks ago and tried it on a particularly bright building that was burning out.
I made sure the building was in the far right third (I am right handed) of the frame and waved my lens cap over the building for part of the exposure. LOL silly I know but it as all I had that was black! The first results were...interesting, but I got the hang of it. Just a matter of keeping the lens cap moving and getting the timing right, so not very difficult.

Likely not the best way 'technically' speaking, but way more fun than sit in front of my computer.


Hey whatever works!

For your particular problem one could of course use a cokin type filter holder and partially insert an ND filter covering only the hot spot.
 
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