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twoellis
Joined: 03 Aug 2006
Posts: 1085
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Posted: Wed Apr 11, 2012 5:22 pm
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Isolations on a green screen? Never heard of that one. Do it the easy way. If you want white, use white and light it properly. Once you get it, you can do it blindfolded.[/i] |
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jeffbanke

Joined: 18 Dec 2005
Posts: 17518
Location: www.xlr8photo.com, The real California
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jeffbanke

Joined: 18 Dec 2005
Posts: 17518
Location: www.xlr8photo.com, The real California
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twoellis
Joined: 03 Aug 2006
Posts: 1085
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Posted: Wed Apr 11, 2012 7:34 pm
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Thanks, Jeff. I'll put it on my reading list for sure. |
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twoellis
Joined: 03 Aug 2006
Posts: 1085
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Posted: Wed Apr 11, 2012 7:43 pm
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Okay, it's a video thing. The lamp stumped me, as I shoot THINGS all the time. I can see the logic of using green behind something that tall, but I'll stick to white. |
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jeffbanke

Joined: 18 Dec 2005
Posts: 17518
Location: www.xlr8photo.com, The real California
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Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 2:00 pm
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| twoellis wrote: | | Okay, it's a video thing. The lamp stumped me, as I shoot THINGS all the time. I can see the logic of using green behind something that tall, but I'll stick to white. |
Actually if you look and listen to ALL the links I gave you, you will see that it is NOT just a video thing, but rather just another tool to use as and when you need.
As I pointed out there is no difference between the "splash" of reflected light from any background, white tends to just wash out the saturation in the subject and reduces definition at the edges if it wraps around the subject too much, so has the same problems, all-be-it less obvious to the casual viewer than a poorly lit green or blue screen Chroma key set.
BTW, the only reason red/orange/yellow are not used in video is because the are too close to skin tones. The point being any color can be used, and is best selected based on the subject.
BTW lukerbine, I love the lamp, would look good in my office :-) |
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twoellis
Joined: 03 Aug 2006
Posts: 1085
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Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 5:54 pm
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I've been taught to shield the subject from the light where you don't want it to spill.
And yes, Jeff, I did scan through all your posts. While I was not unfamiliar with the green screen, I never saw it used for isolating objects such as what I saw in the original post.
BTW, big thanks for your taking the time to dig up all the info. It is interesting and I'm sure will get some wheels spinning on some new technique...even mine? |
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lukeurbine
Joined: 22 Aug 2011
Posts: 54
Location: Colorado, http://www.WhitewaterPhotography.com
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Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 9:39 pm
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Jeff and All, thanks for the replies. The lamps are for a client, he brings several in at a time. All of the antlers that he uses are sheds and the rock is from the high country in Leadville CO. He used driftwood on this series. The really cool thing is that the wires are totally hidden. I mean gone. He drills the rock, wood and antlers to hide the cord and does an incredible job. As you can see in this 5 foot floor lamp he does really nice work. I could use some of the simple tools of PS CS5 and hide the slight green hue, but since I had some time I thought I would pick y'alls brains on the best method to be more efficient and not have to tinker in PS. Great ideas posted, definitely worth trying on his next series.
Also love Laurins tip on the side lighting, I will definitely implement that on my next indoor senior. |
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jeffbanke

Joined: 18 Dec 2005
Posts: 17518
Location: www.xlr8photo.com, The real California
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Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 11:43 pm
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I did forget to suggest that a white foam board with an additional light to bounce white light into the area that you are getting the green splash would also help in eliminating any residual green on the subject, although I think Russ's suggestion of a white foam board or white vinyl just in front of the subject would resolve the issue. This would not have to be of any significant size, just large enough to prevent the green splash so of the order of only several inches (maybe 6-8) in front of the lamp. |
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