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scruggelgreen
Joined: 09 Mar 2010
Posts: 416
Location: Apple Valley Minnesota
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Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 12:44 pm
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I think your fighting the fact that you took the picture at 2:39 in the afternoon. The light doesn't look too terribly strong, but i would have shot this in the early evening or later.
Try using a circular polarizer, adjusted to reduce the reflections and bring back some sky, meter for the building itself, lock into manual mode, then place a Graduated Neutral Density filter to prevent any blowout of the sky. More times then not that's about all you need to do. Then less work on Post, and more "Clean" images that don't need to be mangled by Photoshop to get the exposure looking right.
Just my 0.02 dollars....... |
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mikenorton
Joined: 22 Aug 2005
Posts: 3474
Location: Guide Book http://www.lulu.com/shop/mike-norton/nortons-notes/paperback/product-5079819.html
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Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 3:20 pm
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| scruggelgreen wrote: | I think your fighting the fact that you took the picture at 2:39 in the afternoon. The light doesn't look too terribly strong, but i would have shot this in the early evening or later.
Try using a circular polarizer, adjusted to reduce the reflections and bring back some sky, meter for the building itself, lock into manual mode, then place a Graduated Neutral Density filter to prevent any blowout of the sky. More times then not that's about all you need to do. Then less work on Post, and more "Clean" images that don't need to be mangled by Photoshop to get the exposure looking right.
Just my 0.02 dollars....... |
I agree and disagree with this. I agree that the shot should be taken either earlier or later and the part about the "Clean" images, the less amount of work in Photoshop the better. But I disagree on the filter part. This is why: If a photographer shoots when the light is low and either behind or to the side of the camera filters are not necessary. When the light is low and either behind or to the side of the camera a polarizer will do no good. The light needs to be close to 90 degrees from the subject not 180 degrees. When the sun light is low and either behind or to the side of the camera the scene from the ground to the sky will be in even light so a Grad ND filter is not necessary either. If the photographer waits till the foreground, in this case the building, is in the shadow of the setting sun then a Grad ND could be used. But look at the building and the 2 large trees on either side of it. Where is a photographer to place the breaking point of the Grad ND filter? Above the building will cause the top of the trees to be too dark, and along the first floor roof line will cause the top of the building and the trees to also be too dark. Even a Grad ND with a soft edge will leave the top of the trees too dark. The solution it to shoot when the the light is low and either behind or to the side of the camera but before the shadow cast by the setting sun covers the foreground and building. Or the photographer could make sure that all the lights in the building are on and shoot during the blue hour waiting for the intensity of the light in the sky and the intensity of the light in building to be the same.
This image is very similar in composition, just switch the building for the two arches. The sun was about 1/4 of a degree above the horizon when I tripped the shutter. No filters of any kind were necessary, and I have no idea how a sky is replaced.
http://www.shutterstock.com/g/mikenorton#id=16707955
2:39 p.m. is nap time! ;) |
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rinder99
Joined: 12 Jul 2005
Posts: 39158
Location: Contact www.rinderart.com/Books and Workshops www.rindersmithphotography.com Youtube/rinder
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Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 4:07 pm
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2:39 p.m. is nap time! ;) Yep. Most people forget one very Important thing. Sometimes ya just can't shoot till it's right and all is in the dynamic Range Unless your good, Very good at Photoshop to save it. |
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alastair27
Joined: 24 Aug 2010
Posts: 218
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Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2012 12:45 am
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Thanks for all the good advice, was getting into a bind with overprocessing in PS and will try to get out later in the day even though in Britain we are experiencing one of the wettest June's for a long time.
Anyone get any advice for creating good photos in the rain, LOL |
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digigandalf
Joined: 11 Jun 2005
Posts: 5406
Location: Twinsburg, OH
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Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2012 7:29 am
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| alastair27 wrote: | Thanks for all the good advice, was getting into a bind with overprocessing in PS and will try to get out later in the day even though in Britain we are experiencing one of the wettest June's for a long time.
Anyone get any advice for creating good photos in the rain, LOL |
Yes. 1, Keep your camera dry ;)
2, Go small. A lot of detail areas, like pavement, shrubbery, windows, etc., that would be boring when dry can become fascinating when wet. |
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rinder99
Joined: 12 Jul 2005
Posts: 39158
Location: Contact www.rinderart.com/Books and Workshops www.rindersmithphotography.com Youtube/rinder
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Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2012 9:00 am
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| alastair27 wrote: | Thanks for all the good advice, was getting into a bind with overprocessing in PS and will try to get out later in the day even though in Britain we are experiencing one of the wettest June's for a long time.
Anyone get any advice for creating good photos in the rain, LOL |
Look for puddles and reflections.Tell stories. |
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