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rinder99 · Posted: Fri Jun 29, 2007 9:23 am

Good Job Ken.

bichon · Joined: 19 Aug 2005 Posts: 11329 Location: Canada

amazing.
1 question. for sharpening.. do you have an alternate method for Elements, as it doesn't do channels ?
thanx

rinder99 · Posted: Fri Jun 29, 2007 10:31 am

Well, sharpening is a very subjective topic, when,how much,do,dont. and My view is every image is different and requires a different approach to this issue. I also go agains't the common belief of No in camera sharpening, BUT, each camera as is each image is different. I shoot D2X and since the beginning have had my in camera level at Low. Only because my friend at nikon who designed the D-70 and the D2X suggested to. He was right [well he should be] I never had a problem and certain images I'll even use smart Sharpen on a layer in post. As always, Your the artist, Theres no book or paper written that can decide for you on these issues , Just like "What is Proper WB" No such thing in my view. Everyone really has to spend the time doing there own tests as to what equipment there using and what effect they want. Theres no other way. The are No rules except learning them , so you can break them , and know why.

bichon · Joined: 19 Aug 2005 Posts: 11329 Location: Canada

Yes, there is an art in sharpening as well. It seems like everyone has their recipe...
ie, Scott Kelby's
soft (flowers,animals,people) 150,1,10
portrait 75,2,3
moderate (product,landscape) 225,0.5,0
max (OOF situation,minute detailing) 65,4,3
these values are of course starting points.

I believe that you can do the blur/edge detection procedure in Elements but i can't remember where i read it...
and the best i suppose is to just USM and eyeball the results looking for halos, and artifacts ...etc.
steve

rinder99 · Posted: Fri Jun 29, 2007 2:44 pm

Yes, I used to read all that crap also. I use my eyes.Like I said, Each image is different and it's final output and usage different. I always suggest people be the artist, It's your work. I am madly in love with CS2 smart sharpen. I use large MP cameras and dont have to sharpen but sometimes I like the effect on certain images Like My "Coal Miner" and "American Indian Woman" also remember if the image is out of focus. No sharpening will help, actually It gets worse. I have software that refocus's an image. pretty cool stuff.

kenny123 · Posted: Fri Jun 29, 2007 3:13 pm

rinder99 · Posted: Fri Jun 29, 2007 3:32 pm

Yes, Those were my exact settings [maybe a taste more radius] and exactly what most of us used when we did a lot of printing and will work great on most images. But, Like any method you choose, be careful. Less is more.good luck

bichon · Joined: 19 Aug 2005 Posts: 11329 Location: Canada

i just want one more halo, Ken.
One to go around your head.
much appreciated.
:)

rinder99 · Posted: Fri Jun 29, 2007 8:39 pm

Totally agree.But, because this is a tutorial thread I must say that Only use sharpening as your last Move.Thats it. Have fun.

Forgiss · Posted: Wed Jul 04, 2007 4:52 am

People asked how we work, so here are videoclips of what we do:

http://forgiss.libsyn.com

if you have itunes, use this link instead:

itpc://forgiss.libsyn.com/rss

suhendri · Joined: 30 Sep 2005 Posts: 884

Basic photography sites

Art of photography
http://luminous-landscape.com/essays/theartof.shtml

Understanding Exposure
http://markhancock.blogspot.com/2004/08/how-to-calculate-exposure-values-ev.html
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/camera-metering.htm

Understanding Depth of Field
http://www.cs.mtu.edu/~shene/DigiCam/User-Guide/950/aperture-priority.html
http://www.cs.mtu.edu/~shene/DigiCam/User-Guide/950/depth-of-field.html
http://luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/understanding-series/dof.shtml

Understanding Histogram
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/understanding-series/understanding-histograms.shtml

Understanding Polarizer
http://luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/polarizers.shtml

kconnors · Joined: 02 Mar 2006 Posts: 36

http://www.morguefile.com/archive/classroom.php?sid=f6a553bb2c8e8f613fe9f85b848f78f4&MORGUEFILE=8vmmok227tp5bjco6c20rr2hm0

domencolja · Joined: 14 Oct 2007 Posts: 178 Location: Slovenija

Connected to that: one more thing to take into consideration is selective sharpening. Applying sharpening to chosen portions of the image is a good way to raise the quality. And blending it in, of course.

p.s.: I do find rather rarely useful going the "sharpen everything" route.

rj08 · Joined: 05 Nov 2007 Posts: 15

Thank you for your posting. I am new to SS and found your article to be very very informative. I appreciated you taking the time to post it.

Thanks, Rhonda

kenny123 · Posted: Mon Feb 04, 2008 8:50 pm

Hi, all, I am always trying to simplify explanations, because sometimes the writer knows what he/she wants to say, and they write as they see it, but unless the reader can understand the writer’s viewpoint, or slant, this can lead to confusion. I notice a lot of newbies, (and others) having trouble understanding exposure. So This, in the simplest way I know, is how to expose for the best results without resorting to expensive literature, or meters:

1. Forget the camera’s metering system.

Your camera uses reflected light readings for exposure-light reflected from different subjects, will result in a range of tones, which your camera’s meter will try to average to give an overall exposure. It may not matter sometimes, but because any little deflection of lighting will give a different reading, and if you are photographing a wedding, for instance, it could look as is photos were taken on different days!

Incident light-light falling on the subjects is always constant.

2. Start using your in-built Incident exposure meter- Your eyes!

As Laurin Rinder says “see the light”, and use your eyes” This is what he means, and how us oldies who started in the late 1950’s/60’s learn to read exposure: You will often hear the term “The sunny 16 rule”, or Basic Daylight Exposure” here it is explained:

Basically four apertures are used: F16; F11; F8; and F5.6

Shutter-speed is based on Equivalent ISO#

Watching the shadows, the base settings are: ( for ISO 200)

Hard-edged shadows …………………….1/200 sec @ F16

Soft-edged shadows………………………1/200 sec @ F11

Barely visible Shadows…………………..1.200 sec @ F8

No Shadows……………………………….1/200 sec @ F5.6

Remember, these are the base settings: so variants would be:

1/200 @ F16
1/400 @ F11
1/800 @ F8
1/1600 @ F5.6
These all give the same exposure
The other 3 settings use the same spatial relationship, the settings you choose are based on subject movement and/or depth of field desired. For instance If you want to keep the Aperture at F8:

Hard shadows……………………………1/800 @ F8

Soft shadows…………………………….1/400@ F8

Barely visible shadows…………………1/200 @ F8

No shadows………………………………1/100 @ F8 (As shadows fade, more light is required)

To get exact exposure readings, you may want to bracket exposures. As you can’t use exposure compensation button when in manual made, this is what I do on my Nikon, your Dslr will have a similar action:

I set aperture to F16, and shutter-speed to 1/200, ( for Hard shadows) Take a shot, then:

1 click of the thumbwheel to the left-take a shot- this gives me a + 1/3 exposure
1 more click to the left, gives me + 2/3 exposure

2 clicks to the right brings me back to the basic setting, then:

1 click to the right gives me -1/3 exposure,and finally ,
1 more click to the right gives me - 2/3 exposure-so I have exposures from 2/3rds over to 2/3rds under exposure.

Looking at these five, I choose the one that gives the most detail in the shadows and also in the highlights, without blowing the highlights-and after a while you will find you are able to guess just about right with your exposures-It is all very simple, and I hope I have explained in words that make it easy to understand.

Regards Ken